TRAVEL BLOG
Point Hicks
A hidden wonderland 

 

 A random selection from my travels.
Photography and text by John Amiet.
© John Amiet 2010

  Day 1
 Early morning saw me driving with a complete camping kit and, of course, a full Leica outfit. My objective was to discover the hidden treasures of Point Hicks and the giant sand dunes nearby. Point Hicks is famous as the first landfall of Australia as sighted by Captain James Cook. Actually, his rank was Lieutenant, but he was Captain of the Endeavour. He named the point after one of his crew, Lieutenant Zackary Hicks, who first sighted the landfall. Point Hicks lighthouse now stands on the point with a dedication to the crew and a listing of the full ship's company.
 

 

 

I arrived at a suitable camp site mid afternoon after a drive of about 600km. The site was on the bank of the Thurra River which flows into the ocean near point Hicks Lighthouse. A short walk on the nearby beach before preparing my evening meal of roast quail and tossed salad whetted my appetite for both tomorrows climb of the dunes and the more imminent meal. Washed down with a nice red, the quails were delicious.

 Day 2
Early next morning, I had a quick plunge in the ocean to wake me up, then cooked a leisurely breakfast knowing the rest of the day would be arduous. I had heard that the trail to the dunes is sometimes unclear and that it is easy to go astray. I set out with my camera kit well secured in pouches spread around a waist belt, leaving my hands free for the eventual climb up the dunes, parts of which are covered in dense scrub. The trail in itself was exciting, with signs of snakes, foxes and rabbits, leaving their tell tale signs to keep me alert.
Later, I learned to distinguish kangaroo trails as well which from their size were quite intimidating until I realized what they were.

 

 

  As the track approached the first dune the scrub and trees opened out and was briefly replaced by a tough wiry type of grass that appeared to crawl along the ground, sending out it's own investigative tentacles. There were valleys between the dunes, some quite wide, others narrow and steep. Navigation quickly became a matter of luck and I frequently chose the wrong direction and had to fight my way back through a perpetual tangle of vines, scrub and sliding sand.

 It was very hot and I was sticky and covered in fine sand. I was carrying a limited amount of water and felt the need to conserve it for later when I suspected the going to get tough. After many ups and downs, that drained my energy, I made it to the top of the first dune. Emerging from the scrub and undergrowth, I noticed that the weather was closing in and I actually felf closer to the low scudding clouds. They were threatening rain, but worse was the threat of not getting the images I had been dreaming of. The light was very flat and I was hoping for some small breaks in the cloud cover to lift my images. My wishes were answered at brief moments and I secured pleasing images, even though not what I was searching for.

  

 

 

As the day brightened, I got a shock.

There were two sets of footprints in the sand.

I was not alone!

Wandering almost aimlessly, they disappeared over the horizon in the direction of a stand of scrubby trees. Suddenly, the sight of those footprints brought home the isolation of this region. Where were the owners of these tracks? Would I see them? This isolation works fertile thoughts into ones head very easily. As my head bowed with fatigue under the oppressive heat and humidity, my vision drew closer and closer to the ground before me. I started noticing the macro life and death that surrounded me. Ants and spiders and other insects seemed to abound, all scurrying before the impending rain.

 Larger life forms also appeared. Dead trees and fragments, bleached by the sun and exposure to the elements, appeared before me like the bones of previous wanderers.
I must take a grip of myself.
I must take a picture and shake off this feeling.
I'm dehydrating.
I must have a sip of water.
I still have a long hike back to camp ahead of me.

  

 

  Scanning the vista before me from a high point on one of the dunes, I saw a welcome sight. There was the Thurra river, snaking through the tangle of vines, trees and scrub. I decided to risk taking a short cut straight down the face of the largest dune that looked like it reached the river. That way I could wade through the shallows all the way back to camp. I assumed this would be easier than retracing my steps over multiple dunes, in a direction of which I was not even sure.
 The slide down the dune face was like a big dipper ride. I had to be cautious if only to protect my cameras. I started a mini sand slide that followed me to the bottom.  
   Fortunately the river was now there right at my feet. The water seemed shallow enough to safely wade back to camp. I estimated it to be about 3 or 4 km along the river.
Much later, after negotiating deeper water and more dense reeds that fired the imagination to think of jungle stalking and all sorts of creatures, I reached the civilization of my camp site.
 My first act was to pour a cold beer and then prepare some cheese and biscuit for recuperation. Very promptly I was joined by a common Australian camp site visitor. A Kookaburra. These cheeky birds are very adept at snatching treats from ones hand, on the wing, as you are about to eat. I did suffer such a loss until I offered it treats of its own.  

 Day 3
I decided to visit Point Hicks lighthouse today and see if I could picture what James Cook and the Endeavour crew would have seen had they landed there at the location of their first sighting of Australia.

  
   I began by walking along the beach from my camp, enjoying the relative freshness after yesterdays grueling climb. The tide seemed to be out so the beach was relatively broad with lots of rock and driftwood exposures. Some of these driftwood pieces were quite extraordinary.

 Taking to the cliff top track after awhile, I progressed more rapidly. Eventually I came to a welcome sign that told me I was on track for my destination which I reached relatively easily.

  



 In front of the lighthouse there is a cairn with various plaques and dedications to cook and the Endeavour crew, including a full list of the crew who sailed in her.

  

 
  Scrambling down rocks to the beach, I passed some ancient looking rocks with very colourful Algie growing on them.

 At the bottom I found a very attractive cove but it's appeal had clearly miss led some poor sailors in the past who were not as fortunate as Captain Cook and Co. Opposite is all that is left of the wreck of their ship. A section of the keel and part of a bulkhead.

The wreck seems to resemble a mysterious smile, that hides a tale yet to be told!

  



Later I met the lighthouse keeper and he accepted my invitation to join me for dinner at my camp.

All images created with Leica M9 camera and selection of lenses.

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